Sunday, April 29, 2018

Towards the Highlands


Bernie is insistent on the placing a trip advisor review of the Fraser Suites – she pleads for the comments that I made on the blog – I transfer them to her and she uploads them but not before adding one additional sentence as follows:

          … “The bathroom doors so heavy that it requires a caber tosser to open it”

She decides to upload the review under my name – I receive a terse email from Trip Advisor – your posting contains a profanity! – please amend and resubmit – we study the review – what are they talking about?– it finally dawns on the geriatrics that the English language has evolved over their lifetime– we amend the final sentence of the review as follows:

…. The bathroom door so heavy that it would require a competitor in the camber throwing event at the Highland Games to open it” – so far – so good – no more terse emails from Trip Advisor!

We arise - the weather in the auld reekie has turned – gone is the sunshine of our first tw0 days replaced by the cold sleet that the Scots accept as their winter lot – we summons an Uber – two minutes and we off to pick up the hire car – in a flash we are off over the Forth of Fife bridge and onto the Fife Tourist Road – the sleet continues – the clouds low – the paddocks green with grass or chocolate brown with newly turned soil – the hedges just starting to display the first traces of their spring attire - the outlook bleak and drab save for the yellow of the daffodil and gorse.




Slowly the weather improves – just improves – it still threatens! –




It is Saturday morning – things are quiet on the roads and in the villages – the locals clearly rise late on weekends – the cafes that usually dominate the town centres of villages on such tourist routes have their doors firmly closed  - our hunger pangs are raised to new levels upon the transit of each village until finally we find a bakery come coffee shop prepared to soothe them albeit with hardly a smile and with a distinct absence of conversation – I wonder if the bleak regression of the emerging spring weather was having a demoralising effect on the locals _ a Haggis  and Steak pie for Bernie – something more conventional for me – while we consume the produce of this local bakery we trust that their manner does not reflect the normal demeanour of Scottish traders and is indeed a product of the day’s gift of the weather gods.

We leave the bakery and proceed along the Fife Tourist Route – the weather shows a greater tendency to improve than to regress – we follow the coastline – we marvel at the shades of grey of the ocean and the skies on its horizon – we note the oil rigs located surprisingly close to coastline.-
By the time we reach Pittenweem the sun has overcome its opposing elements and is trying its best to brighten the hearts and minds of the travellers – we emerge from the hire car at the historic old harbour at Pittenween – it is lunchtime – we brave the chilly winds to join a few Germans – a few Scandinavians – a few locals – all admiring the boats and wondering at the paraphernalia of the crab fishermen – scallops and smoked salmon for lunch – our eyes too large for the capacity of our bellies.







Onwards – the weather improves to the stage were it could be described as tolerable – along hedge bordered road – along roads  bordered by land turned by mouldboard plough -along roads bordered by wide open paddocks of uniform green – along roads that follow the ocean.

We reach ……. And head inland – Bernie sees a tourist sign “Scotland’s Secret bunker” – she cannot resist – we follow the signs – we pay the 30 pounds entry fee – we whince – the fees are large in Scotland – an early nuclear was bunker declassified in 1993 – the operations room in the even of a nuclear attack – long past its use by date – a testimony to man’s folly – we contemplate the facilities that must have replaced it – we assume their location and details are known only to those n the know!

















Onwards – the sun shines - St Andrews – by the sea - through her architecture and atmosphere she  politely points to her tradition as a university town – not quiet Cambridge  but a traditional university town nevertheless - busy on a Saturday afternoon – students – locals – golfing tourists sporting their golf bags screaming “look at me – I am finally fulfilling a lifetime of dreams”






Across the Tay – into Dundee – to Perth and the Auld Manse Guest House